I found my consolation back on the beach. While taking a stroll waiting
for dinner, we noticed occasional rise rings. Looking closely, mayflies
of size #16 were hatching, and some fish were feasting on them.
I placed my imitation to see what those fish were. Place your pointer to
see a decent sized greyling - up to 30cm - and they were in abundance here
when the hatch was on.
Meanwhile our little Misa found her own company too!
- Next
Not a sign of life this afternoon - Igor saying it was still several weeks
too early for the trout to come up to the shallow.
He suggested we better go fish for Okun (perch). Out of politeness I followed
his advice and, yes, we did catch some small perches - to the entertainment
of our little Misa at least.
At 8 next morning we got off in Olnegorsk - a small town almost in the
center of the peninsula.
From there we traveled by car some 1 hour to the east, to the village of
Lovozero. Then we hopped on to a boat to sail the lake of the same name,
to a lodge on a small island.
Mid August already is start of autumn up here. Great quantity and varieties
of wild berries and mushrooms were popping up in the the grassy forest
floor.
In less than 100meters walk on a wooden steps you come down to the shore.
Misa was happy playing on the pebbly beach.
The boat kept rocking like a see saw and our poor little Misa was down
on the floor.
True, you never die of seasickness, but sometimes you almost could.
Thankfully, the lodge on the island was very comfortable and we slept well,
to wake up in a beautiful fine morning.
The lake is a home to trophy trout. But catching them on fly is not easy
and can be tried only in some inlets where rivers flow in.
The first place where we were guided did look promising - our guide Igor
had caught (and ate) many big trout here. And he was eager to prove his
words by repeating the sucess in front of our eyes - casting his big spoons
to and beyond where we was covering.
Lovozero is a 4th largest lake in the peninsula, with a respectable size
of 200sq kms.
The lodge, Ruskaya Laplandia, is built on a tiny island in the southern part of the lake. Access is
by no means easy, particularly the last leg in a speedboat for good half
an hour can make you wet, but the peaceful environment and comfort ot the
lodge do attract nature lovers especially during the weekends.
In the late afternoon we took a boat and went back to the town of Kem,
on the mainland.
The island of Solovki is located in the middle of White sea. In the late 15th century a monastery
of Solovetsky was built and, due to its strategic location, was attacked
and fought over by many - including British navy even.
During the Soviet time the island was used as a labour camp, where many political prisoners were sent, exploited and perished.
Our next stop north was the town of Veromolsk. A medium sized town where
we were to catch a ferry boat to the island of Solovki.
However the departure of the ferry was delayed, again delayed, and eventually
cancelled due to the persisting fog. We had to take a bus to the town of
Kem 2 hours' drive north, and went aboard a smaller boat in the cold drizzle.
Karelia in August '16 - 2From Kem we again hopped on to a night train heading farther north - to
the Kola peninsula.
Russian trains always ran on time - surprisingly punctual they were. You
can book and buy tickets on their web page, and you just have to show your passport as you get on.
The sleeper compartments are not luxurious but perfectly functional - pls.
place your pointer on the pic left. Each passenger receives a fresh linen
and the cabin has air condition too.
Today the island regained its peace and the monastery is rebuilt to its
former day's glory. Many pilgrims and nature lovers come visit here particularly
during the short summer.
We were blessed with a wonderful sunny day but, knowing its history, there
was a touch of sadness even in the fresh sea breeze.
