On the way back, we had to stop a good while to let the big herds of reindeers pass ahead of us.

After some yelling and sweating we arrived at the location called 'Vadapart' i.e. Waterfall, for a reason obvious. The big deep pool, where all the sea run fish must stop by, is one of the best fishing spot of the entire beat.

Day 3, we woke up to find blue patches of the sky. It was 6c, likely to warm up to 12c. A good day. An unusually good day.

As far as Graylings are concerned, this place was a paradise. Squinting the eyes in the polarizer, we could almost always spot a grayling, of fine size, positioned in the bubble lines waiting for a meal. They were very active on this warm(er) day, rising freely to #10 Elkhair caddis and black foam ant. Little Misa too enjoyed a tug of war.

Back at the camp we rejoiced taking a bath.

No lux jacuzzi here. But Russians' love of 'Banya' i.e. steam bath make impossible possible. It's a simple tent customized with a wood stove but works perfectly well - heats up very quick as it is tiny. Place the pointer and see inside. Once you become piping hot, jump into the river right in front. The 9c water will nicely chill you out.

- Next

Again we headed up along the river, following the advice of Andrey: Access to the gorge becomes difficult once wet. Better fish there while still dry.

It's 3kms one way, plus 150meters' descent & ascent. A solid work out for us adults but for the 5 years old it must be . . . Hey, little Misa is going with Dima, leaving us all ways behind. Hey, wait!

Now that both Hama and Sayuri have caught one each, allow me also to settle my bill.

Such a fishy looking pool, I anticipated a take at any moment. Indeed there were many, but only of Graylings. I even sneaked right up to the waterfall, dropping all sorts of bombs and torpedoes. Yet, alas, not a single char!

Sayuri soon was into a solid fish, which charged into the depth testing the strength of the 10lb tippet. At the bottom of the green tinted but clear water we saw a struggling fish, with fins marked in white lining - a char at last!

Sayuri fought carefully but forcibly, landing her first char a few minutes later. Congratulations!

Passing by the pools #10 & 11 which we fished the day before, we walked half a mile further, to check out the point #12 & 13.

The panorama unfolding below our eyes was grand. Far north in Russian arctic, in a wilderness not known by many, , , there is a. . . . Hey, little Misa is going down leaving us all behind. Hey, wait!

While we were getting a little tired, Hama was getting into the game. Yes, so long as they take dry flies I understand , , , but we must know chars rarely comes up to surface. Sinking leader is the way to go.