So we reverted away to our safer option - back in the shorelines of Shiretoko. Here at least we are in the game even if not as good as in the 'average year'.

Pink salmon fishing in the ocean can best be enjoyed with 7wt rod of 9ft in length. You can try two handers but long casts are seldom needed. Observation and quick, accurate casts are the key. Reels with good disc brake are of paramount importance - that helps you to use finer tippets, I recommend 8lb fluorocarbon.

- Next

Aug. 17.

We visited Chuurui river, one of the few rivers where salmon fishing is allowed.

The condition looked great, but there were so few fish in the best of the pools. The salmon run was very poor this year - not sure if we can blame everything on climate change though.

The silhouette of Kunashiri island (occupied by Russia) looms up in the rising sun.

No, I'm not claiming back the islands. Just let us fish once in a while!!

The town of Rausu offers variety of dining options. Crabs and sea urchins are the crown jewels of the north sea.

Half an hour is really enough to satisfy the dry fly urge. It's really one cast 5 bites proposition (so long as you don't set a hook with the first 4 fish).

Soon enough we took positions on the rock, casting into the blue ocean.

Most of the game occurs within 30-50cms under the surface. Floating line is fine, but the flies must be lightly weighted to intercept the fish before they swim on.

A lovely silver slab. Spotting the glares and nervous waters are the key.

Shiretoko is now one of the world natural heritage sites. Increase of tourism funded the construction of such goodies as this walkways - to keep us away from the bears, or vice versa.

Another very important point is to obtain a good vantage point. Any solid rocks will work as an observation deck. Believe me, it doubles the catch rate.

Sayuri was quicker to spot a passing school of salmon and plant a streamer in their path.

From the dead end town of Aidomari you can only walk as far as you want. Again we could meet up with this cuddly watchdog - Kurochan (but haven't you gained some weight again my dear?)

Thanks to the good rain of the past few days, the rocky cliffs were turned into waterfalls here and there.

Aug. 15th. A lovely blue sky. We went for a fun drive up and over the picture perfect Shiretoko pass.

A typical scene of our holidays - rods work as clothe hangers too.

The small streams are literally teeming with Oshorokoma, Hokkaido's native char.

Our favourite lunch in Hokkaido. Rice balls, corn tea and a can of local beer.